Tucked In The Mountains: Crested Butte, Colorado

Searching out the best places to read, write or sip on the Western Slope

If you’re looking for a mountain location that typifies Colorado, offers skiing and dramatic mountains and a historic and quaint downtown, you need look no further than Crested Butte. CB, as the locals call it, is one of the premier yet still not overly commercialized skiing destinations in Colorado. In fact, even for many Coloradans this little mountain town remains relatively unknown. It’s just a four hour drive from Denver and worth every minute of gorgeous scenery.

Originally settled as a mining town, Crested Butte still retains much of its historic flavor with original buildings and architecture. Look closely as you walk the streets and you may notice a few of the older homes have doorways at a second floor level. If the snow was deep enough to bury the front door, there was always the upstairs door to use.

When you visit Crested Butte, you’ll want your first stop to be the famed Elk Avenue, home to upscale gift shops, galleries and eclectic assortment of clothing stores. Of course, you won’t want to miss the locally and independently owned bookstore, Townie Books, and maybe stop for a cup of coffee while you browse books at the attached, Rumors Coffee and Tea House.

When you’ve worked up a hunger in the high altitude air, there are plenty of gourmet restaurants along Elk Avenue too. If you’re in the mood for a taste south of the border, stop off at Donitas Cantina and be sure to order a large margarita. If it’s pizza you’re craving, visit The Secret Stash, the absolute best and most unique pie this writer has ever tasted. Another local favorite, Slogars, is just off Elk Avenue and serves up fried chicken, mashed potatoes, and real creamed corn, family style, all sure to make your taste buds dance and your arteries slow down, just a little. One of my personal favorites is Pitas In Paradise home of delicious gyros and falafels.

There are many galleries to feed your creative appetite as well. My favorite, Paragon Gallery, is the oldest art cooperative in Colorado and features 14 regular, local artists. The Paragon is located in the old City Hall building erected in 1883. If you stop by in summer, be sure to check out the dates for the People’s Fair—a glorious street fair sponsored by the Paragon and featuring a wide variety of arts, crafts, music and vendor food.

Of course, you’ll want to drive up to Mt. Crested Butte and check out one of the best ski resorts in Colorado. The Mountain has been featured in many magazines for its still unassuming but excellent skiing atmosphere. In the summer, take a lift ride up the mountain and soak in the incredible wild flowers or mountain bike the many trails.

If you come this far you’ll want to have time to explore the amazing scenery. There’s no shortage of lodging, but my favorite is Elk Mountain Lodge located just off Elk Avenue. Originally built as a miners’ boarding house, it is a simple yet historic flash to the past and features a full breakfast during peak season, gorgeous sitting rooms and a library—ideal for a writing retreat. If you’re looking for something a little less expensive and more earthy, check out the Crested Butte Hostel.

There is never a lack of activities in Crested Butte including hiking, scenic, breath-taking drives, mountain biking, skiing, fly fishing and too many recreational locations and activities to mention. And don’t forget the Crested Butte Writers Conference, June 21-23. It might just be the perfect excuse to visit and soak in a little mountain paradise.

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Julie Luekenga lives in the high mountain ranching community of Gunnison, CO and is a freelance writer published in regional and national publications and a member of Rocky Mountain Fiction Writers. Writing under the name Julie Luek, she maintains two blogs, A Thought Grows and In Fine Company and is a regular, every other week, contributor to the international writing website, She Writes. Please visit her on Twitter @Julieluek and on Facebook.

Tucked In The Mountains: Salida, Colorado

Searching out the best places to read, write or sip on the Western Slope

Arkansas River

If you haven’t been to Salida for awhile, you are missing out. Not yet as popular or glamorized as some resort towns, I almost hate to reveal that it is a sleeping jewel in the midst of 14,000 foot mountains. When you drive into this once mining and ranching town from highways 50, 24 or 285 it’s easy to zip through with a yawn. But follow the sign to the historic downtown, and you will be greeted by a five block radius of art, restaurants, pubs, antiques, and boutiques.

My daughter and I recently spent a relaxing day exploring this quaint and charming town. Fortunately for me, I happened to park in front of The Book Haven Bookstore starting our visit off with my very favorite attraction. The Book Haven is well stocked with new and used books, and invites you to sit, browse and read at one of the café tables or at the comfortable seating area in the back.

After purchasing a book, we headed down the street charmed by the carefully restored 1900s era architecture. We were delighted by the variety and frequency of art galleries. It’s not surprising Salida is considered one of the 100 top art towns in America. One of our favorite galleries, Bungled Jungle was a quirky mix of laughing, bug-eyed monsters badly in need of dental work. It was impossible to look at these imaginative sculptures and not smile.

Although we didn’t stay for the night, we did take time to check out the recently restored Palace Hotel. The hotel was built in 1909 and housed 44 rooms. The current owners kept the original, gorgeous woodwork but created 14 suites equipped with small kitchenettes. The rooms are exquisite, each having a distinct personality. A few offer serene views of the Arkansas River. The rooms run $120-$165 during the week, slightly more on weekends and offer a light breakfast of freshly ground organic coffee and an organic and healthy yogurt parfait including home baked muffins brought right to the room.

We also checked out the very affordable Simple Lodge, a quaint, clean hostel offering bunk rooms, rooms with shared baths and even a private suite with its own bath. A communal living room and large kitchen table warmly invites guests to relax and enjoy the company of fellow trekkers.

When the stomach growls, it’s time to rejoice. There are plenty of culinary options in all tastes and price ranges. If you’re looking for a great view of the river, The BoatHouse Cantina offers the local Elevation Beer, (brewed in nearby Poncha Springs) and plenty of great burgers, burritos and appetizers.

For lunch, we tried the Laughing Ladies Restaurant, named for the ladies of the night reputed to have inhabited the town in the late 1800s. Surrounded by the original brick, wood floors and tin ceiling, the setting invites you to sit back and slip into an earlier, bawdier era. The salmon, poblano, and goat cheese burger, however, will entice you deliciously back to the present.

 

Lastly, if you visit, don’t skip the outskirts of the small downtown area. Just across from the local Safeway, we stumbled upon a charming shop called Beyond the Hive, where the owners have been harvesting and selling honey produced in Salida for over 100 years. As a prize for my husband who was left behind, we picked up a small jar of creamed maple hazelnut honey before leaving town.

Salida makes an ideal get-away. Visit during the summer and catch the epic kayaking, hiking, ziplines, fishing and biking opportunities. And after a hard day of play, relax with wine from one of two local wineries. There won’t be a shortage of experiences to savor or inspiration to capture your imagination.

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Photos and post by Julie Luekenga. Julie lives in the high mountain ranching community of Gunnison, Colorado and is a freelance writer published in regional and national publications and a member of Rocky Mountain Fiction Writers. Writing under the name Julie Luek, she maintains two blogs and is a regular, every other week, contributor to the international writing website, She Writes.

Tucked In The Mountains: Box Canyon Lodge, Ouray, Colorado

Searching out the best places to read, write or sip on the Western Slope

Box Canyon at Box Canyon Lodge

Ouray, Colorado is surrounded by some of the most dramatic mountains in the state. Considered the Little Switzerland of America, the San Juan Mountains represent some of the steepest and rockiest in Colorado. Nestled in these mountains is one of my family’s favorite hideouts, Box Canyon Lodge. The rates are reasonable and the rooms, while simple, are very clean and come stocked with a small refrigerator and microwave, ideal for a few nights stay. But we never remain inside for long. There’s too much to do outside, including soaking in the mineral hot tubs, open and free to all lodge guests. The tubs look like large half wooden barrels, taking the imagination back to an earlier time, and are conveniently located on terraced decks directly behind the hotel.

The property of Box Canyon Lodge was originally owned by Mr. and Mrs. Richard Cogar and operated as a sanitarium from 1925 until 1929 and then became the Sweet Skin Sanitarium owned by Mr. Kent from Illinois. Sometime after World War II, it turned into a motel and has been operated as such since then. The original bath house can still be seen on the edge of the property. Many claim the relaxing hot mineral waters still contain curative powers. I don’t know about that, but it sure feels good to sink into a steamy tub after a day of hiking, skiing or even just touring the town.

After a quick soak in the morning and a cup of freshly brewed coffee from the lobby, my family and I head out to explore the shops in the historic downtown. Of course, like a word-seeking missile, I locate the independent bookstore, Buckskin Booksellers. Lined with shelves of books and a rack of magazines, I quickly settle into browsing mode. The bookstore contains a great selection of local authors and maps as well as bestsellers and classics. What writer can resist that kind of offering?

There are plenty of fine restaurants including the local Ouray Brewery, to feed your appetite. And be sure to stop by Mouse’s Chocolates and Coffee for a tempting bite (or two!) of delicious homemade chocolates, cookies and decadent ice cream treats.

Don’t worry about eating too much, you can work it off. Take a short drive to the dramatic gorge and walk around for a bit. In the winter, you can catch daring ice climbers at the Ouray Ice Park picking their way up steep manmade ice walls lining the canyon. In the summer, be sure to hike the short and easy walk to Box Canyon Falls. The historic setting quickens the imagination, and the scenery, pools, shops, bookstore, and eateries make Ouray, Colorado and Box Canyon Lodge an ideal location for a writing get-away or a reader’s paradise.

For information and rates about Box Canyon Lodge: http://boxcanyonouray.com/

For more information about the town of Ouray: http://www.ouraycolorado.com/

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Photos and post by Julie Luekenga. Julie lives in the high mountain ranching community of Gunnison, CO and is a freelance writer published in regional and national publications and a member of Rocky Mountain Fiction Writers. 

Writing under the name Julie Luek, she maintains two blogs (In Fine Company and A Thought Grows) and is a regular, every other week, contributor to the international writing website, She Writes. She can also be found on LinkedIn, Twitter, and Facebook. Watch for Julie's Chiseled in Rock reports from the western slope on the first Tuesday of each month.